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I ran into problems with the initial Lexmark microSD card i started with. Switched to a PNY 32GB class 10 card and it booted right up.

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384 is optimal.

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When you select a game to play, you’ll notice it immediately goes to a black screen and up top will say press X or M to enter configuration. Press X and it will take you into a configuration screen that will allow you to change plugins. One will allow you to configure a default plugin for all roms in that emulator. With N64, you’ll want to select the option for selecting a plugin for that specific rom. I found that Mario Kart 64 and Super Mario 64, the Mupen64plus-gles2n64 plugin works awesome. Others, like ExciteBike 64 will work better with Mupen64plus-gles2rice.

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Have you tried utilizing either Mupen64plus-gles2n64 or Mupen64plus-gles2rice plugins? I had to mix it up on mine. Some games will work fine on one yet not so much on the other. Takes some time tinkering with each game to find the best fit. Some games just won’t run well at all no matter (even with overclocking).

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I ran into the same problem. Was thinking maybe it was like some forums where you had to have a specific post count before you were eligible to upload an avatar, but I keep seeing newbies with one to three posts with it, so I’m not sure????

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[quote=97682]Not really ideal if you dont have a lot of space on your SD card.[/quote]

Meh. microSD cards are cheap so there should be no reason to run anything smaller than 16GB. Running a 32GB Class 10 with 2700 roms + the OS and only utilizing 14.32GB with all console games unzipped. No issues and no mess (duplicates). I’ll take that.

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Only put unzipped roms in your folders (except MAME and Neo-Geo). All other console game roms can be unzipped before putting them into your related Retropie emulator folders.

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What brand of wifi dongle do you have connected to your PPi? Some aren’t compatible.

Another question: Have you tried connecting your RPi to an ethernet connection and updated the software?

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Type:
ifconfig

This will pull the information you need. look behind where it says inet addr and it will show your RPi’s ip address.

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Very clean layout. Best of luck with getting it all cut. Are you going to be doing most of your cuts with a oscillating jig saw?

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Do you have the neogeo.zip BIOS placed in either the FBA or NEOGEO rom folders?

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Honestly, I didn’t try to get the keyboard reconfigured. I tried a couple different brands of keyboards I had around the house to see if there was any change, but it didn’t help. Since I set mine up in a full arcade configuration (no need for a keyboard), I just worked around the issue. Since then, I’ve set up WinSCP/Putty to access terminal from my home computer and haven’t had to deal with the issue. For some reason, through WinSCP the keyboard layout is exactly as it should be. I’ve found that, with the Raspberry Pi and Retropie, there is a lot of tinkering to get it where you want it and, more frustrating, (and, to coin a phrase) there seems to be a million ways to skin a cat with it.

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Mine does the same. I had to play around to find what key the # symbol was assigned to (I think it was the \ key….I know it was a key in that vicinity). The @ key assignment was another that was off and, if I remember correctly, was found to be the ? key on the keyboard (they had swapped locations for that one. So whatever emblem pops up when you try to type @ (SHIFT+2), try the key for the emblem that displays in jstest. I’m pretty sure it was the ? key though.

Once I got that figured out, I just worked around it.

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[quote=11686]i dont think it will work on pii
even the n64 emulator dont work properly

[/quote]

Ummm, my N64 emulator is now running smooth as silk. It just takes a bit more time playing around with all the configs than the other emulators.

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Fixed!
Switch the audio plugin to:
mupen64plus-audio-sdl.so

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To change audio output:
sudo nano /opt/retropie/configs/n64/mupen64plus.cfg

The first block of settings will include an option to select HDMI or analog audio out.
If you want analog, enter 0
If you want hdmi audio, enter 1

The problem I am having now is that using analog output has negatively impacted the gameplay. It’s not horrible, but it stutters a bit now.

I’m playing around with the different audio settings in the .cfg but all seem to produce no change. The only thing I haven’t done is change the audio frequency from 33600.

Anyone else run into this problem?

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Hmmmm. Now the gameplay is choppy after setting it to output through the 3.5mm output. Why would that be?

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Never mind. Found it in the .cfg settings

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20,000 games!? Wow…that’s unreal. I agree with herbfargus, you might want to cut back a bit. lol. I have roughly 1300 games combined on my system and it is fast as heck. Since I’m running my system within an arcade cab I built, I limited my games to only those systems compatible with single stick and 6 button configurations. Then I made a list of the games that I would most enjoy playing and culling titles out of “Top 100” lists. Even with 1300, that’s an extreme amount of games that I’ll probably not have the time to play in a year. I’m still sorting and refining but I doubt I’ll put more than 1500 total for the sake of making the system somewhat easy for users to navigate and find titles as well as keep from congesting my microSD card.

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I know they’re working on a new configuration tool called Input Station that is supposed to make controller configuration much easier. Not sure of what the interface and such will look like, but I’ll be excited to test how well it works once its released.

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Yes, I’m using wifi. I believe that I’ve already entered the “wireless-power off” line item, but I’ll double check to make sure. And yes, I’m using the sftp file protocol. I think the most frustrating thing has been the hit-and-miss nature of the issue. If it wasn’t working 100% of the time, I’d know something was legitimately wrong. But with it sometimes working and mostly not, it was making me pull my hair out last night. I’ll double check on the “wireless-power off” though just to make sure.

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So….from what I understand from that article is I can use CLRMAMEPRO to select the PARENT and the CLONE .zip files and recreate them as NON-SPLIT SETS (all clonesets will now include parentset files)? Once that is done, I should be able to delete the versions I don’t want?

Example: PUCKMAN is the parentset and PACMAN is the clone. If I use CLRMAMEPRO and run both as NON-SPLIT sets, it will provide PACMAN with the parentset files and be able to run on its own so that I can then delete PUCKMAN as it’s no longer needed. Is that right?

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Interesting that works, yet if you remove the files and only keep the main .zip game file it won’t load. I’ll give that a shot tonight. Also going to try uncompressing all the files and rezipping them into one to see what that does.

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Did you just create another folder for the smaller files within the same ROM directory? If not, where did you place it?

Second question: If you did place it in the same ROM directory, does that folder show up in the games menu?

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I’m all for this update if it’s a huge improvement over the current MAME emulation being used. ocbgold is right, MAME is currently the weakest (most finicky) emulator in Retropie.

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[quote=96445]As long as there is no overwriting the files, can I take the 1941.zip, the 1941a.zip, and the 1941b.zip, and put all files into one 1941.zip so the files are all present[/quote]

Good question and I was thinking about trying the same thing. I had posted the same question a couple of days ago with no response. MAME is a cluttered mess and I find it frustrating that all these additional files are necessary to load a game when I have no interest in any of the variants (Street Fighter 2 is a great example).

All I want is one option per game to show up in my game selection menu under each MAME emulator I’m using. If I can’t clean it up, I’m almost debating on dumping MAME altogether.

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Great video tutorial! Thanks!

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To your previous questions about graphics and your marquee:
1) I used Photoshop to create my graphics and took the .psd files to my local print shop. Cost me $38 to have the control panel, monitor bezel and marquee graphics printed. Make sure you select actual measurements when creating your graphics so that they are to scale.

2) For the marquee, do NOT have them print it on normal paper. I made this mistake the first go around and it didn’t look good. When backlit, you can see the papers grains and it looks funky. Have them print your marquee on photo paper. For my marquee, I cut two identical pieces of plexiglass and then sandwiched my print in between them. Once it was all squared up with the print nicely lined up inside, take some masking tape and run it along the top and bottom essentially taping the two pieces of plexi together. I then utilized 3/4″ aluminum angle to fasten it to the marquee spot on my cab.

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Sealing up the MDF is a tedious, time consuming process. I can see why manufacturers just glue vinyl type skins over it instead of painting, but I prefer the look of paint. I started with sealing the cut edges first with undiluted wood glue. That’ll help prevent the open grain of the MDF from sucking up your primer and paint and adds a higher level of protection. I didn’t want to use T-molding as I wanted my edges to be gloss black like the sides of the MDF. Sanding it all down is time consuming, but worth it.

I also used BONDO for hiding all my seams and joints. Lots of sanding time there as well, but it all looks uniform. I had countersunk my screw holes and then used BONDO over the top so you can’t see where any screws are.

Best advice: Take your time and don’t rush yourself. If you want it to look great, don’t settle for “good enough.” Any slight blemish that wasn’t sanded out or filled correctly will stick out like a sore thumb with gloss paint.

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It’s all paint. I used an oil based enamel (Rust-Oleum, gloss).
I rubbed wood glue into all the cut edges of the MDF to seal them up (took about 3 coats of wood glue) and sanded it smooth. Then I mixed a 50/50 solution of wood glue and water and coated the entire cab with a foam brush ( also 3 coats followed by sanding with 220 grit). Then I used KILZ oil-based primer and shot 2 coats with my HVLP gun (followed by sanding with 220 grit). I then shot the black (5 coats) of gloss black with HVLP (thinned with VM&P Napthala). Sanded in between coats. Once the gloss black had completely dried and cured, I taped it off and used a 4″ wide smooth foam roller to roll on the paint for the stripes.

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Anyone?

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Short answer is: both. I test a rom in both to see which one it runs better in.

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Nope! But I do now and it’s working great! Thanks!

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I used a 24″ in my cab. Hopefully you have someone to help with the initial cuts. If you’re using 3/4″ mdf, those 4×8 sheets are damn heavy and awkward to load up on saw horses by yourself. I found I did more tweaking on mine as I went from the original design.

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Very nice! Can’t wait to see your build!

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