[jarkokoo]

Ok, I can now confirm, that the controller comes active right after I press both of the shoulder buttons down simultaneously. It also seems, that if I have the controller being idle a while, it kind of goes into “sleep” and then I need to activate it again via that 2 button press.

If someone knows how to disable this behaviour, it would be highly appreciated.

[jarkokoo]

Ok, I can now confirm, that the controller comes active right after I press both of the shoulder buttons down simultaneously. It also seems, that if I have the controller being idle a while, it kind of goes into “sleep” and then I need to activate it again via that 2 button press.

[jarkokoo]

When I load the game (super mario bros) it appears that controller input is disabled, but if I wait about 90 seconds it starts working!!

I have the exact same problem, but I haven’t even configured emulator specific controls (yet). Just did the first time config and then edited it a bit. I’m using RetroPie 3.0 and Wii Classic pad with Mayflash adapter. Works like a charm, but the delay is really weird AND annoying and sometimes totally random length. :( It also feels like pressing some buttons can activate the controller faster, but I’m not 100% sure about that, I’ll have to experiment more.

[jarkokoo]

I don’t mean to troll or anything, but if you REALLY are after a genuine CRT-look and extra bells and whistles, you have to invest some more money to your project.

For MAME + HLSL most of the small form factor PC’s around 300e/$/250£ will do, especially, if you’re willing to drop the desktop resolution to 900p – it really doesn’t show on MAME’s picture quality, but shows on performance, when the shaders are run. For example my ASUS VM42 runs MAME with HLSL enabled at full 100% speed, when I dropped the resolution to 900p, and it looks beautiful. But a good thing to remember is, that this kind of system is only suitable for 2d-stuff in MAME, so no Rival Schools or Radiant Silvergun.

For 3d stuff, in MAME or, if you want to emulate Wii or similar or RetroArch with shaders you’ll need a “real” computer, with a dedicated decent GPU. In most cases the 3d-era systems’ emulation and the shaders in RA are just so demanding. So, if you want to have it all: you have to buy a real rig, that runs your emulation project.

For other individual emulators with shaders: you just have to try. But the bottom line is: with a cheap system, like RPi or even a small form factor PC/HTPC, you just have to let some features go. In RPi environment it mostly means: no shaders at all, at least not at this particular moment.

[jarkokoo]

[quote=105304]

I will try just straight up reinstalling because I have tried several roms and none of them work.

[/quote]

You have tried to download roms from different outlets, right? Have you tried to launch them in some Windows emulator first? Just to be sure, that the actual roms do WORK? Then: how are the roms being named? Do they have spaces in the names, like “Super Metroid.smc”? Or do they have perioids before the suffix, like “Super.Metroid.smc”? If so, rename all of them so, that the empty space or period is replaced with “_”, like “Super_Metroid.smc”. At least for me, this was an issue with SNES roms I had.

[jarkokoo]

[quote=15514]Have you tried the manual procedure ? There is a post somewhere here where they explain how to do this without using the script. Personnally this is what I did for my Microsoft Sidewinder controller and it worked great. The retroarch.cfg is still the file where controls are stored.

For extra buttons I simply remove un needed lines.
[/quote]

Ok, thanks for the info. All I really needed to know, was that someone confirmed, that the retroarch.cfg is still THE file to tamper with. :) Somehow the script method didn’t put inputs in the retroarch.cfg, which made me pretty confused.

I managed to get it work. Somehow the inputs were not registered as they were in 1.x, so that was the reason they were all messed up, as I copied those codes straight from the old retroarch.cfg. Now everything’s fine, beside few emulators, where you need their own configurations, like Mame4all and GPSP. :P But yeah, loving the 2.2!

[jarkokoo]

Hori RAP VX SA “Kai”

[jarkokoo]

Looks awesome! Looking forward for the translation. :)

[jarkokoo]

Ok, I solved this already: I just decided to jump in front of a gun and go compile the latest xboxdrv (0.8.5) and indeed the VX-SA stick is recognized out of the box as a XBOX 360 controller, like it should in the first place.

Here’s a little step-by-step guide, if someone is having the same problem:

1. I would suggest to get everything else working first, if you have the normal wired 360 controller – set that up

2. BACKUP THE IMAGE!!!

3. Scroll down for “mattc”‘s instructions for compiling the xboxdrv 0.8.5 and follow those instructions closely:
http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=27325
As “mattc” says: the compiling process can take up to 2h (mine took little under 1,5h with Model B Rev 2), so do not panic. The process also throws a lot of swp {b} warnings, which is apparently ok, so don’t panic on that one either. :)

4. After a boot everything should be working. If you didn’t have original 360 controller, now you have to setup the Hori stick. If you did configurate the original 360 controller in step 1., you’re ready to go! You might want to put an argument –dpad-only in your rc.local as the stick uses only d-pad inputs.

5. Might be a good idea to make a separate backup of the image at this point also.

“mattc” also mentions in the end of his great n00b friendly instructions, that he got his F310s working also with kernel update. I haven’t tried if it’s the case with Hori RAP also, because this seemed to work just fine with me. I might try that though at some point.

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