Homepage Forums RetroPie Project GPIO Adapter, ControlBlock etc. ControlBlock unresponsive, thumbnail of rainbow in screen

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  • #92145
    lasergecko
    Participant

    I am having all kinds of issues with my
    ControlBlock. Sometimes, it works in
    EmulationStation, but most often, not or it’s
    extremely sketchy. It does show that it sees the
    drivers in ES and RetroArch.

    I only have P1 joystick, SW1, SW2, and two other
    buttons hooked up right now. (I’ve moved them
    between Start/Coin and A/B.) If I enter the UI
    config in ES (by using a USB controller), it
    immediately registers some button as UP, then goes
    to the next one. Last night, it was automatically
    loading Adventure on the 2600 emulator.

    Is there a “standard layout” for the inputs? If
    you’re using it in arcade mode, where should I
    wire the Select and Start buttons? How does Start,
    Coin, A, and B figure into the RetroArch config?

    I even ran the RetroArch controller controller
    setup and it registered the inputs, but when I
    finally managed to get an NES game loaded, no
    response at all.

    I have beeped out all of the inputs (with it
    powered down) and there are no solder bridges. The
    only thing I do not know is whether the Ground is
    shared between P1 and P2. (I assume it is.) If
    not, then that might be my problem.

    Everything was fine before I added the
    ControlBlock. So, I’m really stumped now. I’ve had
    the joysticks and buttons for a week, but it’s
    been a week of nothing but frustration.

    #92147
    petrockblog
    Keymaster

    P1 and P1 share the same Ground, so that is perfectly ok. My first guess is that the service „SNESDev“ is running in the background – it is the driver for the RetroPie GPIO Adapter and (unfortunately) uses some of the GPIO pins that the control block service is also using.
    You can check if the service is installed with the command “service —status-all“.

    So that might interfere with each other. You can uninstall the SNESDev service, e.g., either with the RetroPie-Setup Script, with the makefile that comes with the SNESDev-Rpi repository (https://github.com/petrockblog/SNESDev-RPi/blob/master/README.md#uninstalling-snesdev-service), or – if you are familiar with the command line and Linux – directly from the console.

    #92148
    lasergecko
    Participant

    There is something odd happening that might be the cause of it.

    There is a small flashing graphic in the top right of the screen. It’s a thumbnail of the rainbow screen that appears when you boot. Every time it fades up and down, the Pause function activates.

    I checked all of the ControlBlock inputs with jstest and they work fine. I even got to play a couple of games tonight, but it’s impossible with the constant pausing.

    #92151
    petrockblog
    Keymaster

    Ah, I see. I had the same problem. The rainbow in the top right corner means that the power that reaches the RPi is too weak: http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=82373.
    When I first encountered that problem myself, I did not think about this, because I did not have this problem without the ControlBlock. However, the power switch functionality of the ControlBlock leads to a tiny voltage drop which seems to just lead to a critical voltage when using certain combinations of power supplies and USB cables.
    It took me some time to find that out. When I changed to a better USB cable (usually this means a thicker, bit more expensive one: more copper, less resistance), the problems vanished immediately.
    So, before everything else: Change to another USB cable and/or power supply so that the rainbow does not appear in the top right of your screen.

    #92321
    lasergecko
    Participant

    Thanks for the help. I dug around and found this, too:

    http://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=582098#p582098

    While I haven’t had a chance to test it yet, I think the combination of the USB cable and the LED switch I used must be dropping the current enough to cause hassles. It ran for quite awhile with just the ControlBlock on top and with the Apple iPad USB charger (2.1A), but now it’s right on the edge of usability.

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